Yes, this time next week Blogless Sandy and I will be in the air, heading for the Balkans. I realised that I should probably start to get ready, so I dug out my euros. I thought I had heaps… turns out I only had 35, which isn’t even enough for the tip to the tour guide.
After visiting Mum, with my brother, sister-in-law and their Golden puppy, I bought some euros and compression socks. (I should start looking after myself more.)
I’m also chipping away at the veggie garden and a quilt top.
Where I’m going:April’s Little Adventure.
I’ve just booked a ticket for tomorrow night. Stay tuned…
Where I’ve been:A baby shower.
Haven’t been to one of these in decades! My niece and her partner are expecting.
This is a thriller set in Sydney. I’m nearly finished. It’s a good read for a holiday – it’s a shame I didn’t get a digital copy for The Balkans.
What I’m watching:The Man in the High Castle.
This has gotten much better – I’ve saved the very last episode for tonight.
What I’m listening to:Into the Austenverse.
This is a terrific podcast about all things Jane Austen. David Campbell (Jimmy Barnes’ son) and his wife Lisa, are the hosts. It was originally meant to be 6 episodes long, just talking about her novels, but almost immediately it began looking at the movie and TV adaptations, etc.
Today I listened to an interesting episode where Lisa interviewed a Regency fashion expert. I now know what body type Jane Austen had. Amazing, the things you can learn.
I like the banter between the two of them, too. It’s clearly a good marriage. They enjoy each other so much.
What I’m eating:a crusty baguette.
I usually make my own bread rolls, but yesterday I saw a baguette in the supermarket. Mmmmm. Nothing like a crusty baguette with butter and Vegemite.
What I’m planning:the rest of my day.
A bit of patchwork, watering the garden, schnitzel and mashed potatoes for dinner – what a life!
Who deserves a thumbs-up:Jimmy Kimmel.
That joke about Melania “glowing like an expectant widow…”
Hilarious.
What has made me smile:Seeing that Carolin Bingley from The Other Bennet Sister is going to be in the latest season of Ted Lasso.
Hazel is now 8 months old, and she is an absolute winner. Once she got her head around house training, she has fitted in around here like a hand in a glove. I was laughing to the kids, saying that last week I was getting out of the shower when I saw her with one of my discarded socks in her mouth. She looked like one of those old-style paintings you see of spaniels retrieving dead birds.
If that’s the naughtiest thing she does, I’m happy. We missed the mark with getting her spayed – she came into season when I was in Taiwan, so after I get back from the Balkans later this month, she’ll be having her op. No more litters for Frogdancer!
Where I’m going: to the hairdresser.
I’ve spaced out the time in between hircuts, so that my hair will be reasonably short when I’m away. It’s driving me mad though. My hair is TOO LONG.
Where I’ve been: to Evan29’s last show at the 2026 Melbourne Comedy Festival.
As luck would have it, Scott was in Melbourne with a tour group, so he, Dimitra and I met at Fed Square and saw his show. It was the 4th time for me, but it’s so fresh and funny that I was still laughing.
Next time he performs “Man Sings The Same Song Over and Over Again For An Hour” will be at the Edinburgh Comedy Festival, where he is booked for a month. If you’re going to be in the area, go and see it!
What I’m reading: Lucinda Brayford.
The ABC made a series of this when I was a kid, and Mum had a copy of the novel. It was published in 1946, and Mum’s copy has a RRP of $4.50, so that shows you how old it is. I rescued it when we were clearing out the house.
It’s a family saga. I’ve reached Part 2, but I’m yet to be really gripped by it (yet.)
What I’m watching: The Man in the High Tower.AND THE OTHER BENNET SISTER.
I remember reading this novel when I was away with the boys when they were little. It’s an alternate history story… what would the world be like if the Nazis and the Japanese won WWII?
I’ve already watched The Other Bennet Sister twice, and I’m seriously contemplating going back for a third time. It’s from the Pride and Prejudice universe, but it’s told from the third sister – Mary Bennet’s perspective.
Honestly, every single detail of this series is perfection. The first 2 episodes deal with the Pride and Prejudice happenings, but then we move forward with Mary’s story. I’m watching it on Binge, and it’s worth getting a Binge subscription for this series alone. (Although while you’re there, you should also watch The White Lotus…)
What I’m listening to:next door’s lawn mower.
What I’m eating:store-bought sourdough bread.
I bought a tiny loaf and I had bread and butter for lunch. Delicious!
What I’m planning:nothing.
Who deserves a thumbs-up:ME!
In the last few weeks I’ve done a lot of quilting.
Baby quilts… one for a St Kilda supporter and the other for my niece. She’s a science teacher, so the DNA double helix one is for her.
The quilt with the green stars is for Tom34’s fiancée, Sophie.
What has made me smile:nothing and everything.
A guy I went out with 20 years ago rang out of the blue and we talked for an hour or so. When he asked how I was, I said, “Living my best life.”
Today Blogless Sandy and I parted company. She was keen to climb more steps on a hike near Taipei 101, the building we visited on the first day here. I wasn’t enthusiastic, but I was going to go with her until Mel said that she was going to get new glasses.
We’d had the option to do that in China but we didn’t do it. I’ve always looked on that as a missed opportunity, so I ditched Blogless Sandy, and a small group of us set out in search of a clearer world with sharper edges.
Getting new glasses fits nicely into my habit of buying useful souvenirs.
Most shops in Taipei don’t open until 11am, so we dawdled our way to the department store. We killed some time at Daiso, where I bought a squeaky toy for the dogs; a hair clip for Georgia31 for looking after them; a nonstick spatula to replace the one I bought in Pyongyang in 2018; and the perfect gift for Tom34 and Sophie. I can’t tell you what it is, as he may be reading this. I’ll show you a photo once I give it to them. It made me laugh.
Mel, being a millennial, had googled where to go to get glasses made on the same day, so we followed like ducklings.
I decided that I wanted everyday glasses, as well as reading glasses, so here I am walking around the shop, seeing if the lenses were ok. Being a frugal person who still likes her reading glasses frames, I simply replaced the lenses on those.
Oh! See the lanyard my phone is hanging from? We were given these when we rode the Breezy Blue train. I’ve been thinking about getting one, so I was rapt.
Here are my new “everyday “ frames.
Everyone was sharing what they were doing on WhatsApp, so we shared too.
We walked back to the hotel and I did what I did in Copenhagen… I gave myself half a day to rest. I read the most amazing book… The Push, by Ashley Audrain, I napped and decided to write this post. In 2 days I’ll be back home, so I wanted to recharge my introvert battery before it all starts again.
A few things about Taiwan I’ve forgotten to mention:
The garbage trucks play music, just like our Mr Whippy trucks do. Imagine how many disappointed children of Australian tourists there must have been over the years.
Their attitude towards the Japanese occupation is very different to China and North Korea’s. Japan conquered the other two countries and treated them terribly, but Taiwan was ceded to Japan and was considered as fully part of Japan. For the 50 years that the Japanese ruled Taiwan, they invested heavily in infrastructure. The Taiwanese seem to regard Japanese rule as a mere fact, not a mortal insult.
People here are really open and friendly. Even though Taipei, for example, is a big city, it feels safe and welcoming.
The pedestrian lights here have that wonderful feature of letting you know how many seconds there are to go before the light changes. I wish they’d do this in Australia. It’s really handy.
It’s not as bad as in Japan, but there are not many public bins around. We’ve learned to be prepared to carry our waste paper etc around with us.
Food is incredibly important here. The department stores make more money from their food courts than they do from the actual things that they sell. People are constantly snacking. I have no idea how they stay so slim.
This photo was posted in WhatsApp, with the caption, “Look Frogdancer! An easy 600 steps to the top!”
I was so glad to be in the glasses shop when that came through. What a horrible set of stairs, I thought as I was happily trying on different frames.
Later, when Blogless Sandy came back, I heard the full horror.
There was no let up to the steps. No flat portions to give people a breather. It was 600 steps straight up. Even she said that if she’d known that, she probably wouldn’t have done it.
But she did, and said the thing that every fool who climbs up a crazy hill says. “The view was worth it.”
We decided to give the night market a miss on our last night, and instead we went down a tiny lane close to our hotel, to a place Mel told me about.
She’d had beef noodles there the night before and said they were good.
Beef noodles is apparently the most Taiwanese thing you can eat. So far, I’d never had it, so being our last night, it was now or never.
This was beef shank with flat noodles and it was delicious. This bowl cost $120 NTD, or $5 AUD.
Afterwards, my little addict and I went back to the bubble tea place, where, after counting her coins, she was ecstatic to realise that she had enough coins left for another bubble tea tomorrow morning before we leave for the airport.
Here’s a glimpse of Sun Moon Lake through the trees, as I was pretending to take a picture while I was fighting for breath on a crazy uphill climb. Why, oh why do I climb things when I’m on holidays? We were driving back to Taipei, and this was a beautiful place to stop for a few hours to break the journey.
Sun Moon Lake is the largest lake in Taiwan. It’s in the mountains in central Taiwan, and is a huge holiday destination here.
It’s not connected to any other body of water and is 748 metres above sea level.
The Japanese made Sun Moon Lake into a dam and increased the depth of the lake by 3 times.
The walk to the pagoda goes up 570 metres. I was NOT a happy camper on the way up. It was a long walk.
Yes, I was grumpy. Look at the size of this thing! Not only had I walked up 500 metres, I still had to go higher.
”Frogdancer!” called Blogless Sandy from the top. “Come up!”
”No,” I said, but we all knew that I’d got my breath back. I was always going to climb up.
But ok… the view wasn’t bad.
I was still tired, though. But look at the mountains behind me.
Those 3 tiny figures on the ground are Cindy and a couple from the group. That’s how tall this pagoda is.
The lake went around three sides of the pagoda, and the mountains encircled us entirely.
The entire interior of this island is covered with mountains.
And what mountains! They’re how mountains should be; all straight up and down with fabulous shapes at the top.
We went down to the town for lunch, then we wandered around for an hour or so.
We sat for a while on the harbour, chatting with some of the group.
Some kid probably went to drama school for 4 years to end up doing this.
Boat time! We had a little cruise on the lake before we went back on the bus.
I tell you, my feet were looking forward to relaxing.
But not so fast…
We stopped off to walk UP to another temple. Bloody hell!
What was strange about this temple was that the monk who founded it had his remains (mainly just his head) split in two. The Japanese took him back to Japan when WWII broke out, and then after the war they gave half of him back to be buried here in this temple.
Half of him.
This was back at the dock when we came back down. It’s probably the monk, in happier times.
Mel took this shot, looking behind us on the bus as we made our way through the traffic back to Taipei. This is the last day of the guided tour. We have a free day tomorrow before we fly home on Friday.
This man takes his pet pig to the night market every night. I tell you what, he’s a big boy!
These are betel nut trees. People here like to chew them, also they are used for Chinese medicine to aid in digestion. They were planted all over the place in the mountains, as we saw on our way to the National Park.
The National Park is 2,300 metres above sea level. Michu Picchu is 2,400 metres, so this will be a little training. If I feel breathless while walking around here, I’ll know to take altitude medication with me to Sth America. (I felt fine, and I was racing around the place as nimble as a mountain goat. )
My ears popped three times while we were driving. These mountains are high.
We left the hotel at 8 am and we didn’t reach the park until after 10. It was a long drive, much of it seemingly straight up. The views were spectacular.
The mountains are so steep, so every piece of flat land was taken up with tea plantations and buildings. It reminded me of North Korea in that very little arable land was wasted.
Remember when I was in Japan this time last year and we were looking at the early cherry blossom? It’s here too.
The forest here is red cypress. Red cypress trees weren’t discovered until the Japanese came. They cut down heaps of them, to the point where there are hardly any mature trees left. The intense wood logging only stopped when Chiang Kai-Shek came to Taiwan.
The result is that there is a lot of erosion after earthquakes disturb the ground , because the smaller cypress trees can’t hold the earth together properly yet. Every now and then, some old trunks are left, to give an indication of just how big the original trees were.
Thankfully, the plan for today was to take a shuttle bus to the top of the mountain, then walk back down. The path was well-defined and easy to navigate. The only uphill climbing would be if people elected to walk fast and then go and see the Three Generations Tree at the other end.
This tree must have been monstrous.
Off we went. We couldn’t have asked for more perfect weather.
A little way down the track, we rounded a curve and saw this. It was all fun and games until:
Well, damn.
Seeing as I wasn’t allowed to frolic, I set off again. See how this tree is holding on to the ancient trunk? To quote Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park, “Life will find a way.”
The path kept heading downhill. It was actually fairly steep.
I looked behind me and I was pretty glad that Cindy didn’t make us walk both ways.
Cherry blossoms weren’t the only flowers. Magnolias!
All too soon, I was at the meeting place. We still had heaps of time left. I’d left Blogless Sandy behind at the No Frolic Lake, so I had lunch with Mel and Earnest, then, after getting directions from Cindy, I set off to find the 3 Generations Tree.
I was standing on a bridge looking at this. Imagine how pretty it would be when the river was full.
There were only a handful of people on the path with me. As I walked, I could hear bells from the temple I’d just left. This is such a beautiful place.
Across a stream and up a small hill … and there it was.
”Life will find a way.”
I had a little time up my sleeve, so I walked a little further and discovered the pagoda of the tree spirits.
I’m sure that having a concrete obelisk would be a comfort to all of the tree spirits whose forest was decimated by the Japanese. Talk about rubbing salt in the wound!
I poked my head into the temple when I came back and I saw this thing. Yes, I don’t know what it is, either.
Pretty, isn’t it? I sat here, watching the bees gather pollen and dislodging petals which fell to the ground.
It wouldn’t be a trip to Asia without a tour of a tea plantation. I didn’t buy anything. I still have tea from Vietnam, Japan, China and Borneo to get through!
We didn’t get a tour showing us how tea is produced, like in every other tea plantation I’ve been to. Instead, they had a singing and dancing show instead. It was all in Taiwanese, so when they were talking, I was on my phone messaging the kids.
Suddenly, a girl in costume was standing in front of me, holding out her hands. She wanted me to dance. um…. Ok I guess…
I was lucky to be between two people who knew what they were doing!
We tried some tea. I guess some people in the group don’t like tea much, judging by the expression. 😂 There was a sculpture in the garden…
In the bus on the way home, Cindy told us why the sculpture of a penis was there.
Two tribes in Taiwan have the penis statues. Their legends are different.
The first tribe tells of a house proud goddess who mops the floor, but whenever she does this she makes earthquakes happen. She sees the penis, she gets embarrassed and she takes off. The village is safe from earthquakes.
The second tribe tells of an evil goddess who brings bad luck wherever she goes. When she sees the penis, she gets embarrassed and leaves. Then the village is safe from bad luck.
”I don’t know why they think a goddess would be embarrassed by seeing a penis,” said Cindy, after telling us this.
And then it was back to the hotel. Blogless Sandy and I went out for sushi for dinner, and that was the end of a fantastic day.
This morning, we were whisked away to the Lotus Lake, which is a lake in the middle of Kaohsiung that doesn’t have lotuses in it anymore. However, what it does have is pagodas. This one turned out to be my favourite.
These pagodas were built in 1976 by the temple across the road. One had a dragon at the front and the other a tiger. You enter via the dragon’s mouth and exit by the tiger’s mouth.
I was surprised once we entered from the dragon’s mouth. The hallway was lined on both sides by ceramic art.
It was a shame. People had obviously worked hard on this, and here we all were, marching obliviously past. Look at the details in this thing. And there were hundreds of them.
Well, damn. Looks like I’m climbing more stairs.
A view of my soon-to-be favourite pagoda from halfway up the dragon pagoda.
This is the bridge to the pagodas from the road. Its shape is designed to confuse any evil spirits or bad luck that might wish to follow you.
One down, one to go!
Once I climbed both pagodas, it was time to cross the road and look at the temple.
OK.
It was a little bit ornate.
Even the roof was given the full treatment.
This is the god of good luck.
I thanked him for all he has given me, and asked him to keep up the good work.
I’d show you more photos, but after we all ate fresh pineapple from a little shop outside the temple, we walked down the street to another temple.
This one was dedicated to the god of war and the god of literature.
First the god of good luck and then the god of literature? This was my lucky day!
There he is! I thanked him for all of the stories.
You can see the smoke rising from the incense sticks, taking people’s wishes to heaven.
This temple was much larger, but the congregation have met the challenge of not letting any surface go undecorated.
Taiwan is super chill about different religions. They figure that if a religion has been around for awhile, then it means something and is deserving of respect.
So you can have a mosque beside a church beside a temple. It’s all good.
The day was beginning to heat up. Blogless Sandy and I headed out to the pagoda in the middle of the lake.
The further out over the water we got, the cooler the breeze became.
It was so lovely out there. The breeze was cool and so refreshing, and there was hardly anyone else sharing the space with us. We stayed out there for around 15 minutes, just sitting there chilling.
On the way back I saw those turtles I’d been warned about.
We had lunch at a fast rail train station, because it has a big food court attached to it and this is a TripADeal tour, after all. I liked this sign.
On our way to Chiayi, where we’re staying for the next 2 nights, I snagged this bag of coriander Doritos. They were bright green, and surprisingly more-ish.
We visited Hinoki village, which is an arts and crafts precinct housed in buildings from when the Japanese ruled over Taiwan in the 50 years before they were defeated in 1945. There were some lovely things being sold. My niece and her girlfriend are expecting a baby soon, and I may have bought a little something for them…
The Japanese garden in the middle of the buildings was beautiful.
We also saw what wasabi looks like.
Over dinner at the night market, we also found out what chicken testicle soup looks like. Cindy ordered it. She says that it tastes creamy…
Of course it does.
When I took the photo, Cindy laughed up at me. “ You’ve came all this way to look at testicles!”
“Well Cindy, I’ve been single a long time!” I replied. 🤣🤣
After dinner, we had an hour or so to walk around the night market. Why they allow a market to be opened on a street, but still let traffic barrel through it is a mystery to me. But then again, what could possibly go wrong?
This was the best sight to end the day. People here adaore their pets, and seeing a dog in a pram isn’t unusual.
Today had all the hallmarks of being a fun day… and it was!
In the morning we drove to a bike shop in the middle of a maze of rice paddies. We had the option of golf caddies, e-bikes or normal bikes for a couple of hours of fun tootling around, finding landmarks on the map we were given.
This is what we chose:
For $20 AUD each, it was a bargain. And it even had a Yoshi on the top.
I assumed Blogless Sandy would want to drive, but she said that she was happy to sit in the back seat, so I was given all the instructions by the bike man.
As we set off, I decided to turn into the car park to practice. Just as well I did. I lost control of the bloody thing and we started careering everywhere. Cindy and the bike guy ran towards us, people were screaming and I lost my head and stuck my foot out to try and stop it that way. It was only when I grabbed the brakes with both hands that the bloody thing stopped. “No one drive near Frogdancer!” Sheridan yelled. “Frogdancer, we’re swapping seats!” said Blogless Sandy.
I told her how to use the controls and we set off. Sedately. We had a great time over the drive, but it wasn’t nearly as exciting as if I’d been kept behind the wheel!!
Not 5 minutes later, Harry and his pushbike fell into a rice paddy. He said it took him 10 minutes to wash the mud off his clothes, it was so sticky.
I was glad it wasn’t just me causing mayhem.
It was a beautiful morning. We cycled or drove around the narrow roads, enjoying the view. The rice paddies reminded me of when you get a quilt all pinned up, with the pins radiating out in straight lines.
Here’s one of the landmarks. Look at the mountains behind us. These rice paddies were in a valley between two mountain ranges. In front of us were the Central mountains, while the mountains behind hid the Pacific Ocean.
This was taken from another landmark, which was a high platform giving a bird’s eye view of the fields.
On the way back to the bike shop, Blogless Sandy slowed down when she realised that we only had 10 minutes left. “Oh no. I don’t want this to end; I’m enjoying driving around here!”
After lunch at the train station, we hopped onto the iconic Breezy Blue train. This is a restored 1950’s train that used to service the east coast of Taiwan, back in the day.
It even has authentic 1950’s air conditioning.
The train weaves its way through orchards of custard apples, mangoes, pineapple fields and rice paddies, and there are stretches where it runs along the Pacific.
I zoomed in to see these fishermen.
We stopped at an indigenous community for a while. To be honest, I found it a bit primary-school-excursion, but some people seemed to get into it.
The best part was this farewell song.
We also saw this dog, which was hobbled with this stick. It looked mean, until it was explained to us that it stops him from running too fast and chasing cars.
As we set off again, we saw the inky black sand on the beach. I had a flashback to Iceland.
It was a fun experience to ride the train.
We all piled out of the train to take a sunset photo, then 5 minutes later we were off again.
Then a few minutes later, we saw this:
How beautiful is this sun?
We arrived at Kaohsiung in the evening.
We walked to the local shopping mall on the river for dinner. What a view. Tomorrow morning we explore the city.
The view from my window before breakfast reminded me of something Cindy said on our first day. I can’t remember her exact words, so I’ll give you the gist.
She said that we may look at the buildings here and think that some are very shabby and need to be knocked down or repaired. The Taiwanese feel the same way. When Chiang Kai-shek lost the civil war in China in 1949 and fled to Taiwan, he brought 2 million people with him. Buildings were put up fast to house them.
Nowadays, most apartment blocks are privately owned. If any improvements are to be made on the facade, EVERYONE has to agree. I need say no more.
On a national level, the government has ruled that when a building is torn down, the site must remain vacant for 2 years before any rebuilding is done. Any person living there has to find another place to live for 2+ years, and if they’re paying rent, the rent would be much higher in the new place because… well, everything is new. Plus, show me a landlord that will happily forego at least 3 years’ rent??
So the buildings remain dilapidated.
Two years ago an earthquake struck Taiwan and Taroko Gorge was hit badly.
Earthquakes usually last for a few seconds. This lasted over a minute. It not only shook side to side, but up and down as well, which was the killer.
The gorge was a major tourist attraction, and its closure has hit the hip pocket of the town nearby. The damage to the gorge was so severe that they estimate it’ll take until 2037 to repair and make it all safe.
Luckily for us, certain sections of the gorge are now open, as of early 2026. Fortunate Frogdancer strikes again!
It’s heavily controlled. Cindy has just warned us that we HAVE to be back on the bus on time, because the gate is only open for 5 minutes…
They weren’t kidding. Cars are queued up and if we don’t get through in time, we’ll have to wait until midday. Luckily for us, there was a gap in the queue and our driver nipped into it as quickly as a huge coach can nip anywhere.
Marble as far as the eye can see.
Blogless Sandy had the window seat today, so this is me, not taking photos and just looking at the scenery.
I couldn’t believe the colour of the water.
The walls of the gorge rise straight up. And when I say up, I mean UP. They are like hills that little kids draw.
Stunning, isn’t it?
Once we arrived at the car park, Cindy pointed to the pagoda. Yep, we’ll be climbing up to that.
Buddhist temple. Built in 1968. These are the first of 300 steps.
For some reason, it seems like everywhere I go, I have to climb something. I don’t know why.
I certainly don’t enjoy the actual climb itself.
I do enjoy the views at the top, and the feeling of relief when there are no more steps to climb.
The ease of going downstairs is also nice.
I suppose even monks have to dry the washing.
We stayed for about 20 minutes up here on the balcony. It was so pretty and peaceful.
They were drying daikon radishes in the sun.
This was a lovely calm boy. I’m sure he could smell Scout and Hazel on my jeans. He is trained to chase the monkeys away when they come to steal the offerings.
Of course, I walked to the pagoda.
Taiwanese toddlers are cool.
I asked Blogless Sandy to stand beside this statue for scale.
I was walking with Earnest, a lovely boy from Brissie, when out of nowhere this monkey jumped onto the girl in front of us. He was literally hanging off her, and he grabbed her water bottle. omg.
Believe all the signs telling you to keep all food and drink out of sight. There were 2 more attacks in the car park.
Blogless Sandy took this one. There was a man killed for every kilometre of road, and the road goes for a couple of hundred kilometres. Imagine chipping through marble to turn a tiny track into a road big enough for a bus to drive down? You can see by the overhang how much rock they had to remove.
We went to an indigenous restaurant for lunch, which was very good. While I was there, Georgia31 sent me this photo of Hazel.
It’s the best photo of my girl I’ve seen. It’s now the wallpaper of my phone.
After lunch, we had a 4 hour drive ahead of us. Halfway through, we stopped to stretch our legs and take in the view. This is the Pacific Ocean.
They had some cool indigenous art scattered around.
Everyone loves a splash.
We arrived in Taitung just after 6:30. It was a long day, especially for the bus driver.
As he was parking in front of the hotel…. Crunch!
He backed into a van.
After we dumped our bags in the rooms, we walked with a nice couple to get dinner at the night market. As I was walking by a man with a little toddler, I saw him place the little boy on the kerb, then he put 2 boxes out into the street. He grabbed a lighter, and said to the boy, “Boom! Boom!”
Boom boom all right. It was spectacular.
We ran into a mother and son who are in our group. They’re Asian and they have very good taste in street food. We followed their recommendation and bought these fried batter balls with shrimp, octopus and veggies.
We left Taipei today and headed into the mountains. Shifen is the only place in Taiwan where sky lanterns are allowed to be released. I wasn’t expecting much from this, but it ended up being unexpectedly moving.
I saw this sign outside a shop as we walked into town.
I was expecting the lanterns to be small, but boy, was I wrong. They’re huge! Four people paint their wishes onto the four sides of the lantern. Cindy told us on the bus ride going up the mountain to take some time to think about what we wanted to write on our lantern. I sat there and realised that, for the moment at least, my life was almost perfect. I messaged Georgia31 to ask what she wanted to wish for herself. I was going to give the lantern-luck to her. She’s a bit stuck and could do with a bit of luck to come her way.
She asked for longevity and good health. I added a couple of extra things because why not?
In between trains, the lanterns are carried out onto the railroad tracks and set alight.
I watched it fly up, up, until it was just a speck in the sky. I hoped it was a good sign for Georgia’s wishes. We saw one lantern catch fire and flame out two seconds after they let it go. I’m tipping their wishes aren’t looking good.
After wandering around the town for a bit, we caught the train along the Pingxi Branch Line.
Much to her delight, Blogless Sandy remembered that she still had a banana and chocolate brownie from yesterday’s lunch.
There was some beautiful scenery along the way.
The town of Zhou tong is famous for its cats, Cindy said. Apparently, people come from all over the place just to hang out with the town’s cats.
After the train, we hopped on the bus again and headed to Jiufen, which has stunning views of the East China Sea.
We had an hour and a half to walk around Old Street, which was full of interesting little shops.
Also a cute baby.
And a cool dog.
And a chic cat.
It had mysterious laneways.
Then it was back on the bus, heading down the coast. We saw rice paddies, and I remembered how last year I was holding rice seedlings by a rice paddy in Vietnam.
Now we were driving beside the Pacific Ocean. Over the horizon lies America.
Here are some fun facts that we learned on the bus:
Firecracker festivals.
In one, firecrackers are aimed at you. If they hit you, it’s good luck. People have to wear helmets and cover themselves all over to avoid getting hurt.
In another one, a volunteer rides on a cart, topless, wearing red shorts and carrying a “fan” ( a branch and leaves in reality) to knock aside the fireworks people are aiming at him. A French guy did it two years running, even though the guy always gets burned.
Housing here is expensive.
Remember when we used to measure housing in square metres? They charge 2.5 million Taiwanese dollars ($113,700 AUD) per square for the most expensive.
700,000 ($31,000 AUD / square metres) for the cheapest ones. I guess housing is expensive wherever you go.
Earthquakes happen every single day here, because they are formed by two tectonic plates. Most are micro, so no one feels them. The good thing about all of the earthquakes is that Taiwan has a lot of hot springs.
3/4 of the island is mountains.
The Portuguese named this island Formosa in the 14th century. I was excited… I have heard of Formosa but I never knew where it was.
We loved the mountains.
Our last stop for the day was the Hualien Night Market, where one clever stall holder trained her dog to help bring the punters in.
We got there right on 6 PM, so we scattered in search of an early dinner. We chose wild boar fried noodles, which were delicious, and only cost $150 NTD / $6.50 AUD.
Tomorrow? A way-famous gorge. ( I’ve never heard of it, but some people on the tour are psyched!)
Our first stop of the day was really interesting. It was the National Palace Museum, which houses over 60,000 Chinese antiquities that Chiangmai Kai-Shek “rescued” from the fighting that was around the Forbidden City as he fled China.
If you peer beside the magnifying glass, you can get an idea of how small the stone is, that the carvings are on. Cindy, our guide, said, “ The ancients seemed to spend a lot of time carving onto impossibly small things. They must have had a lot of time on their hands.”
The two things in the front were given to dying people to hold, in the belief that all of their money and their luck will pass to the next generation. The same tradition is still done today, except that it is now red envelopes stuffed with money.
You pour the wine in the top, then tip it and pour it out through the droopy neck. It honestly doesn’t seem like a very efficient process to me.
These are ancient seals. I was surprised when Cindy told us that seals (she called them stamps) are still in use in Taiwan to this day. When people make big purchases, like a house or a car, they bring their personal seals to stamp onto the documents.
Another wine pouring vessel.
Loved this one. Her chubby cheeks!
This one was INSANE. The ball has 16 layers of ivory and it took 3 generations over a hundred years to complete.
Of course there were many more things that we saw. We spent an hour and a half and we barely scratched the surface. You could easily spend a whole day here.
Taipei 101, which was the tallest building in the world from 2004 to 2010. We stopped here for lunch. Some of us decided to go to the observation deck on the 86th floor.
Remember recently, when I went to the Eureka sky deck in Melbourne with Scott for a Little Adventure? This one was far more interesting.
Taipei is ringed by mountains, so there was a lot of variety. It wasn’t just a city scape.
Plus, it’s the only building in the world that has its Tuned Mass Damper on display to the public.
This is the thing that stops skyscrapers from breaking apart during earthquakes and typhoons. It sways as a counterbalance to keep the building intact.
It is 5 stories tall and weighs 680 metric tonnes. I’m not usually drawn to hydraulics, but I found this interesting.
Chiang Kai-Shek memorial hall. It’s huge.
He died in 1975, and that’s when the government decided to build it.
Finished in 1980. Both his and his son’s bodies are not here, as they wanted to be buried in China. They are mummified, like Chairman Mao and the Kim family of North Korean. The hope is that one day China will allow them to be taken back, but I think there’s fat chance of that happening any time soon.
On the 4th level, there’s an enormous statue of him.
He looks benevolent, don’t you think?
It’s part of a large area, with the state theatre and library housed in the orange-roofed buildings. Blogless Sandy and I went for a walk outside, and I was passed by 3 school groups. They must’ve been learning English, because lots of them called out, “Hello!” “Hi!” as they went past.
Then it was back in the bus, on our way to a weird little temple.
The street view was as you’d expect. But the first courtyard?
It was as if Disney workers on crack designed their version of a Taiwanese temple. The place was crammed with statues like these, all made from wire and cloth. It was bizarre.
Longshan temple looked more normal once I moved in from the outer courtyard.
As you know, I’ve been to quite a few temples in the last few years. I couldn’t help noticing something I’ve never seen before.
Many people were tossing two red wooden chips on the ground, then picking them up and throwing them down again. Some people would only do it once or twice, but others would do it for a while. Then, they’d suddenly put the chips in a container, grab a long stick from a bin, stare at it, put it back and then race away.
I asked Cindy what was going on. “Oh, we believe that
HOLY SHIT… I’m on the 6th floor and we just had a mini earthquake!!! My room was swaying and I could see the water level in Wanda moving. WOW.
Anyway, what was I saying?
Cindy said, “ We believe that when we ask the god a question, we then toss the chips. If they both land the same way, then the answer is yes. But if you really want to be sure that the answer is correct, you throw them again. If they land the same again, then you can be sure it is certain. If they land differently than the first time, you have to ask the question again, but in a slightly different way.”
She laughed. “Sometimes I have been there for an hour!”
Our last stop before heading back to the hotel was a culinary one. Apparently, pineapple cakes are one of Taiwan’s way famous foods. We were going to make some for ourselves.
It wasn’t all that challenging. Basically, you wrap a biscuit dough around a pineapple and melon purée. Then they set us loose in the gift shop while our cakes were baked.
The packaging they chose to present them in was a little unfortunate, but the cakes were nice.
Blogless Sandy and I went back to the night market for dinner. This time, we had steamed pork dumplings and they were fabulous. We were served 10 for less than $5.
On the way home, we stopped at a shop across the road from the hotel and Blogless Sandy tried Bubble Tea. She liked it. ( I won’t try it because I can’t stand milk in my tea or coffee. )
Tomorrow, we leave the city and head out on our trek to circumnavigate the island.
Retirement Reading Quest – Reading my way to ‘free’ council rates.
I’m on a quest to borrow and read enough books to, in effect, cancel out the cost of my council rates per year.
It’s outlined in this post.
Year 8: 2018/2019 – $1,800
I may as well continue back-tracking. I moved here in 2016, so I’ll chip away at all the rates I paid up till then.
Running Total – $1,465.
Year 7: I’m already a year ahead on my rates, so I’m taking a reader’s suggestion and I’m going to go back and start covering the rates from the year before I started. I may as well.
Year 7: Total needed: 2019/2020…$1,800
Finished! 12/12/2025
Year 6 (2025/2026) $2,590 AREADY COVERED!!!!!!
10/08/2015 – I won’t have another rates notice until August 2026, so I have time to kill. Let’s knock over a previous year’s rates, just for fun.
Year 5 (2024/2025) $2,339 and dog rego ($63) = $2,435.
Finished it before I even had the new rates notice ready.
Year 4 (2023/2024) $2,413.
Success! Not sure exactly when I passed the total, because I was waiting on the dog registrations to come through. But yes – I blitzed it.
Year 3: (2022/2023) $2,350
12/01/2023 FINISHED! Not working gives me heaps more reading time – I recommend it!