Financially Independent, Retired Early(ish) at 57.

Category: The ‘why’ of FI. (Page 8 of 37)

Borneo, day 4: a very exciting day.

WHAT a day!

Today was a truly memorable day. I fulfilled a goal and had an adventure.

We had an early start for the morning cruise. By 6:30 we were on the boats to see what we could find.

A crocodile!

The first real thing was a tiny bronze-backed snake. I have no idea how the boatman saw it in amongst the reeds. It’s non-venomous. Now I know why snake beans are called what the are. It was just as long and thin.

An egret. I love how they always look so clean. Remember how the guide in Arnhem Land last year said that not even crocodiles would eat them, because they’re nothing but feathers and bones? 😂

We saw another stalk billed kingfisher. I like these, because even I have a good chance of spotting them.

Female black hornbill.

Long tailed Macaques.

Black and Red Broadbill. We were on our way back to the lodge for breakfast when one of us asked if we could stop at the nest again. We’d see it, but the bird flew away when we approached, so no one got a photo. 

It turned out that the timing was perfect… not a minute later, someone in the boat yelled out “Otters!” 

The boatman instantly jumped off the gas and swung the wheel. We reversed past a clump of reeds that was in the way.

“Even the boatman is excited!” said Sarah.

The boatman wasn’t the only one. Ever since I missed out seeing wild otters at the floating village in Canada, I was keen to see them. 

I never dreamed I’d see wild otters in Borneo. What a wonderful surprise.

“It’s very rare to see otters on the riverbank,” said Sarah. “Usually, they stick to the swampy areas further inland.”

The other boats crowded around us. Sarah started making a squeaky/ chirping sound to keep the otters where we could see them. 

They were so curious. They kept poking their heads up over the riverbank to check us out. I kept craning my neck to see more of them. We were mirroring each other!

Finally Sarah said, “Take your last photo. My mouth is getting tired from calling!” So we left them. 

Honestly, I can’t believe how amazing my life is. 

Otters in Borneo!

After breakfast, we had a trip to the Gomantong. Cave. As we were waiting for the boats, David heard a ‘thump!’ as something hit the ground from up a tree. 

“Is that a snake?” he asked. The jury was out, until it moved its head when he walked up to it. It’s the same sort of snake as the one we saw in the reeds earlier, so now you have a clearer look at it.

We put on our hard hats, donned our disposable gloves and set off for the cave. You wouldn’t believe that this hill is completely hollow, would you?

I wasn’t expecting much from this tour. We were warned about the stench of the bat guano, which can be so strong that people take one step inside the cave and change their minds about going any further. 

There’s the possibility of getting peed on by a bat or a swallow, which made some people I saw wear rain ponchos over their clothes. 

That all didn’t bother me much. I’ve always had a bad sense of smell, and if I got peed on, we were going straight back to the lodge so a change of clothes wasn’t far away.

What did bother me a bit was the cockroaches.

Disgusting, dirty things. They make nests in the guano and then swarm all over the railings, the steps and the walls of the cave. Sarah issued us with disposable gloves so we could use the handrails. The steps were somewhat slippery from the droppings.

But it was worth it. Video taken by Elizabeth.

I didn’t find the guano smell too bad, but then again, if I could smell it clearly, then it must have been strong.

The cave itself was spectacular.

The caves were discovered by foreigners in the 15th century,when Chinese traders discovered the birds nests in here. They are still harvested today.see the long ladder? A few men brace the bottom while one brave soul goes up to collect the nests.

“Geese, you’d want to make sure you had your mates down there holding you up!” said Gary. “Imagine if you owed someone money??”

They weren’t wrong about the cockroaches. The place was full of them. I’ve never been more glad to be wearing gloves.

You wouldn’t want to lean against the wall for a rest. I wasn’t expecting constantly moving my feet because I didn’t want one to start crawling up my leg.

But, as I said, this place was worth it.

It didn’t take long for us to walk the circuit. I was in the front group, as usual, so I missed the drama of when a local woman who was in a hurry, tried to push past some of our group on the slippery stairs. She slipped, fell on her back and cut her arm open.

Imagine. Not the sort of place where you want to be courting an infection. Someone dabbed her cut with tea tree oil, but she left with her back and bum covered with bat, swift and cockroach poo. 

Stay safe, people!

After lunch we had a few hours to spare before the next boat trip. I thought I’d spend the time blogging and reading, but instead I had a solid two hour nap. I must’ve needed it.

As I left my cabin to get to the dock, I glanced at the sky. “Hmmmm, looks like rain,” I said. I wasn’t wrong.

As we were enjoying afternoon tea, the rain began to. Soon, ‘thunder, bolts of lightning’ joined in. 

We would be out on a body of water in the middle of a storm. What could possibly go wrong?

Eventually, all but one of us set off. I had a rain poncho on, under my life jacket, and I was sheltering my precious phone near my chest, where I hoped it wouldn’t get wet.

The likelihood of seeing anything was low, but we all had hopes of spotting the Pygmy Elephants. FOMO is a powerful thing.

The rain was bucketing down. I absolutely hate getting rained on. 

This proboscis monkey looked as though it felt the same.

I wasn’t taking pictures of everything we saw, because the rain was getting very heavy, the light was dark and I love my phone. But when a Hornbill is silhouetted, you take the shot.

Would you believe it? As we were all snapping away, its mate flew up!

After 5his coup, Sarah asked if we wanted to go back now. We didn’t, so off we went again. 

This time, we turned up the river where the elephants are sometimes seen.

The rain got heavier. I tucked the poncho around every bit of me I could reach, lowered my head and let the rain fall. The boat would stop if anyone saw anything was, I reasoned. It’s not as if I ever spot much. I’m very unobservant.

I wasn’t taking pictures correct. The boat slowed to a stop. I shook the water from my poncho hood and saw this family of long tailed macaques crossing the river.

This one was showing off his acrobatics, walking upside down nearly the whole way.

Sarah told us that we were turning back now, after we took photos of these wet monkeys. The rain was getting heavier and the animals would be hiding away.

The three boats sped back towards the lodge. I was in the last boat.

We were zipping along, me hunched over under my poncho, when our engine died. No coughing or spluttering… it stopped dead. 

I waited for it to start again. Nothing. Meanwhile, the other two boats were merrily heading over the horizon.

The rain poured down. Elizabeth tried to call Sarah but she had no reception. The boatman got through to her voicemail and left a message. As this is happening, the boat is quickly heading downstream.

The rain start3d to ease up, so I emerged from under the poncho. I decided people needed cheering up.

“So who are we going to eat first if we don’t get rescued?” I asked. Then I realised.

“Shit. It’s going to be me. All of the rest of you are married.”

“Aw,  maybe we should eat the youngest person. They’ll be tender,” said Gary.

I looked around at them. I was well and truly screwed.

“That’s me,” I said.

They laughed. “It’s not looking good, Frogdancer!” said Ken.

I fished out the little whistle attached to the life jacket and blew it. 

“We’re SURE to be saved now!” I announced.

We swept around the corner of the river and the place where the boats would come was lost to sight. It was amazing how quickly the river was moving.

When a boat swung around the corner, we cheered. “I told you the whistle would work!” I said.

A rope was quickly slung between the two boats and off we went. All was going well until the rope snapped. 

Just as we were about to head off into the wide blue yonder again, another boat turned up and positioned itself beside us. We made a mid-river transition from one boat to another.

Then we were off again.

The rain had stopped and the ride home was lovely. At least, it was for me. Ken has straight into a puddle of water on his chair, so he wasn’t all that comfortable. 

“At least it isn’t warm, Ken!” said Jenny.

I’m ending the day very happy to have seen otters in the wild, and to have survived my almost certain brush with death. 😀

Tomorrow we leave the lodge and head back to civilisation.

Dad joke of the day:

Why should you never date a baker?

Because they’re too kneady:

Borneo, Day 3: the Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary.

Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary. I went in thinking that orangutans were the only Borneo species for me. How wrong I was.

The sanctuary is surrounded by palm oil plantations. An abandoned one was bought, with plans to get it up and running again as a working farm.

One of the staff was cooking pancakes one day, when a proboscis monkey ran in and stole all the pancakes. For some reason known only to themselves, the new owners decided to turn it into a sanctuary. This property has one important feature… it borders the mangrove swamp, which is where the monkeys prefer to sleep.

The Reticulated python and Clouded Leopard are their main predators. The proboscis monkeys have webbing on their feet, which enables them to (sometimes) outswim crocodiles.

They can jump 30 feet from one tree to another. This is a learned skill, with the babies trying to jump further and further. As they gain confidence, their jumps get longer. It takes around 4 years until they make the 30 foot leaps.

Playboy of Borneo. 

The males’ noses grow to 16 cm long, which allows the males to make loud noises. Whenever the group moves, the alpha male will call to make sure the whole group follows. The longer the nose, the more attractive the male is to the ladies. Their penises stay erect for 24 hours.

No comment.

They can’t eat sugar. If they do, it leads to gastric upset. The food the sanctuary feeds them are pancakes made from flour, water and cabbage.

They have a 4 chambered stomach, which digests leaves over 50 hours. They have a pot belly due to this.

Harem group, 13 to 50 members. One male, and the females.

Bachelor group… heaps.

He looks like a middle aged businessman on the train, staring at his phone, doesn’t he?

One of the males was trying to provoke the alpha male.You can hear the banging of it running across the roof, while the alpha male climbs up the tree and onto the roof to chase him.

After he landed on the roof, there was a huge kerfuffle, with thumping feet running, screaming and yelling. All the tourists went”ooooooooo” and raced to the other side, hoping to catch the action.

The winner appeared, looking mildly pleased with himself, gathered up his family and slipped back into the trees.

Female has a growth hanging from her. It started growing during Covid. They are vet checked and she’s doing fine. They are reluctant to perform surgery because they don’t want to let the animals get used to people. Then they won’t be wild animals anymore.

The babies are born with a blue face. It turns orange by around 2 years old. 

They live for 25 years in the wild. The rangers hardly ever  find bodies, because the monitor lizards clean them up.

These monkeys are absolutely terrific! I came to Borneo to see orangutans, but these are equally worth the trip. They were so entertaining to watch, and although they’re not the most attractive, they have an odd, quirky appeal.

Sarah’s story. Mother Muslim and father Catholic. They registered Sarah as a catholic and her siblings as Muslims, because the laws changed. Anyone marrying a Muslim must convert, and all their children must be registered as Muslim. (Her little brothers are catholic, and are having difficulty getting the government to change their official religion.)

Her parents divorced when she was 9 years old.

When she was a child, she lived with her mother in the poorest part of Borneo. People existed on rice, and to add some excitement to their diet, they added salt. She remembers going into the jungle with her friends to eat tapioca leaves, and when her Dad shot a deer, it lasted them a month. When she was in primary school, she had to walk for an hour each way to school.

When she was older, the kids went to live with her father in Kotakinabalu – the big city. There, they were exposed to all sorts of food.… fish, chicken, eggs, macaques, snakes and dog. He impressed on them the need to not waste food.

Dad fed them dog without telling them until they finished. The kids all cried, because they had a puppy. They all went to the bathroom and threw up.

Anyway, back to the trip!

We had a short boat ride across to the lodge, where we’ll be staying for 2 nights.

We were walking back to the lodge dining room and we saw a civet and a monkey having a go at each other. Sarah took this video. She was excited because she hasn’t seen one at the lodge during the day before. I was excited because I’ve never seen a civet before.

As we were getting ready to leave for the boat trip, word came in from the villagers next to the lodge that an orangutan had been spotted in an old nest. We raced over. Honestly, how would you ever know it was there?

The kids playing underneath the house were laughing at the crazy adults, I’m sure. People with binoculars could spot the orange fur in between the branches.

And then there were more civets! There were two of them in the tree.

Black hornbill. Zoom in.

Stalk billed Kingfisher. It took me ages to find where it was, which is crazy when you consider how colourful it is. Anyway, I got there in the end.

Rhinoceros Hornbills. These are one of the Borneo Big 5 to spot.

Proboscis Monkeys in a tree. We counted at least 4 of them. If you see a tree violently shaking, it’s probably not the wind.

Baby crocodile. Sarah has a handy pointer to show people like me where the animals are.

Macaque monkeys.

As we were speeding back to the lodge, I spotted a blue snake in the water. We were past it before I could take a picture.

One last treat… Darters in the treee, with one spreading its wings.

We’re staying two nights at this lodge, which doesn’t have wifi. If there’s a break in transmission between posts, this is the reason why.

Dad joke of the day:

Borneo, Day 2: ORANGUTANS.

This is the fulfilment of a dream. I’ve wanted to see the orangutans of Borneo for I don’t know how many years. And today – here I am, walking quickly past this mother and baby while taking a quick snap. What a lucky pic!

You can see the stick that a ranger was waving in front of her. We all thought it was to protect her and her baby from stupidity humans, but we found out later that she likes to steal iPhones from people. She was casing the joint.

The Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary is a place that rescues orphaned and injured orangutans and rehabilitates them to hopefully go back to the wild. The orangutans are at the centre due to deforestation for palm oil and timber. . They like to eat the young shoots at the palm oil tree, which obviously causes problems with the farmers.

97% same genes as us. The people of Borneo call them “little cousins.”

Every day orangutans make a new nest . They wander 2kms a day, never far from food. They are 10 – 20 metres off the ground and it takes 15 minutes.

A mother and baby made a nest in a palm oil plantation. The farmer called the wildlife people, who came and tranquilised the mother. The baby thought its mother died. It cried, threw leaves at the wildlife officers and bolted for the jungle. Both of them were transferred to the sanctuary.

If you are caught hunting orangutans, it’s a fine of 50,000 ringgit (around 12,000 AUD.) Also 5 years in prison.

Baby orangutans stay with their mothers until they are 10. In the wild, they live for 60 years. 

They release the babies back into the wild after they reach adulthood.

These videos were taken through a one-way mirrored window, which has unfortunately made the colours a little wonky. This is a place where the young orphans learn to socialise with each other, under the careful supervision of their keepers.

We were given an hour to sit here and the time galloped by.

When the food was brought out, some of them were chill. Some shared… while this one raced away with food clutched in her feet.

I got very excited when I saw a black squirrel running across the rope leading to this platform. This makes 3 continents that I’ve seen squirrels in! It’s on the tree trunk to the left, doing its best to grab a snack without being seen.
Actually, me mentioning the 3 continents thing reminded me of when I was talking to a stupid American, who wouldn’t believe me when I said that seeing a squirrel was exciting for me, because we don’t have them in Australia.

” You must do!” the stupid American said. “Squirrels are everywhere.”

They went on and on about how every country has them, until I lost patience and snapped, “Ok, so how many wombats do you have in YOUR country?? Everyone knows wombats are everywhere.”

That shut them up.

I’m way zoomed in on these two, heading for the food through the jungle at the back.

Then it was time to head out to the outdoor feeding area.

There were many macaque monkeys there. I don’t know why this one was looking so distressed.

I like this shot.

There was only one orangutan mother and baby at the feeding spot. The rest were macaques. It was sweet when the keeper arrived with the food.

I love how the keeper almost absentmindedly helps the baby. It’s obviously something that happens a lot.

Then all of a sudden it got exciting. I was standing right at the front of where the feeding platform was, when suddenly we were all being told by keepers to stand away from the fence. At first we were reluctant to move, but when they said that a mother and baby orangutan were coming down the path, we all moved back as one to give them space.

It turned out that instead of wanting to walk down the path, she wanted to stick around. She and her baby ended up on the roof above our heads.

You’d better believe that I moved lickety split up and over to where I could see her peering down at us!

Not even 6 feet away.

They stayed up there for quite a while. Apparently, one guy on our tour keeled over and needed a wheelchair. I only heard about it at the end of the day. I was too busy watching these two.

Look at the colours.

So very cute.

Then as suddenly as she appeared, she decided to leave.

I was third on the path following them. We saw them both climb some ropes leading up to the tall trees. I was just in time to snap her swinging away.

This was only the first of four stops today, but I’ll pick up the story tomorrow. This was a wonderful experience in a year that’s been full of wonderful wildlife experiences. I’m a very lucky woman.

Dad Joke of the Day:

Borneo, Day 1: Arrival in Sankakan.

Day one of this trip was a huge travel day, but by 3pm I was in Sandakar, Borneo, meeting Sarah, our tour guide for the next 9 days, and sizing up the rest of the group. There are 29 people on the bus this time, and it looks as though I might be the only solo traveller.

Usually, I fly with no checked luggage and 2 carryon bags. For the first time, Malaysian airlines weighed my carryon. I was over 7 kegs, so I checked in my little suitcase. In the rush, I forgot to check if it was locked.

Imagine my relief when I got it back at the airport, when I saw that the lock was open but absolutely nothing had been messed with. Fortunate Frogdancer strikes again!

Some locals that I saw from the bus window when we came into town.

After I found my room and settled in, I decided to go for a walk. I bumped into a group of 3 couples who were travelling together, and so I joined them. Over drinks in a rooftop bar, they said they were part of a group of 6 couples who met when their kids were preschoolers.
They go travelling together, years after their kids have grown up and gone. This time, half of them wanted to see Borneo.

This is a predominantly Muslim place. Borneo is an island split into 3. We’ll be travelling in the part owned by Malaysia.

As were were walking along the harbour front, one of us saw a monitor lizard at the water’s edge. You can see its tongue, helpfully silhouetted against a piece of rubbish.
Sadly,Sandakan is very dirty. My room looks out across the harbour front, which would be lovely except for all the litter floating around in it. You wouldn’t want to eat at the local KFC. As we walked past it, the smell from the drains outside was absolutely putrid.

I haven’t seen a single dog, which isn’t surprising, given the high Muslim population. But there are cats. Not as many os in Zanzibar, but they’re here.

We went walking around. We went into a shop or two, but there was nothing I wanted to buy.

We ended up by the water again to have dinner. Sarah had recommended a place called Bistro 88, which served beer and good noodles. Dinner was $4 Australian, and I think the beers were $3 each. As a non-beer drinker, this will be another alcohol-free holiday for me. The wine here only came by the bottle and was $57 AUS.

When I got back, there was a guitar player down in the square below, singing loudly. Luckily, he sounded good, because I needed to sleep. There’s only a 2 hour time difference, but it was a long day. I drifted off with his voice in my ears…
Tomorrow – orangutans!

Dad joke of the day:

China, Day 9: Shanghai.

Every morning while I have been travelling, the first thing I do is grab my phone and check Messenger, to see if Dad has died. If there was nothing, I’d take it as no news is good news and go about my day.

This morning, Blogless Sandy and I were on the bus, ready for our day in Shanghai. As the bus pulled away, I decided to give Messenger another little check. My sister had sent a simple message: He’s gone, Frogdancer.

I was two days short.

I was ok though. I really thought that he’d die when I was in Africa, so while I was there I said my goodbyes, so the extra 3 weeks we had between Africa and China were a bonus. And honestly, I didn’t want hm to keep going any longer. There was no point. He had wasted away to 43 kgs and he wasn’t enjoying himself anymore. It was a release when he breathed his last.

Anyway, I was on that bus and, after I sent voicemails to my family, there was nothing further I could do. All of my kids went to Bonbeach to be with Mum – my sister said that it was lovely. “The room was very full!”

At first I trailed behind Blogless Sandy like a lost puppy, but then I got back into the swing of things.

Shanghai was established in 1219 as a small fishing village. It now has 28 million inhabitants- more than the whole of Australia’s population. Our hotel was an hour out from the centre of town, (which will become important later on), and it was wall-to-wall apartment blocks. Summer said that they each house around 2,000 inhabitants – and they kept marching on and on. We are very lucky here in Australia.

Shanghai only became important after the Opium War between Britain and China. The Chinese lost, and were forced to open up the country to foreign trade. Shanghai was the city that was nominated to house the traders and it opened to the British in 1843.

The British paid for the tea with opium, not accepting any other form of payment. This opium tore through China and contributed to its decline in the 19th century. Yet another dirty deed.

Japan invaded China in 1931 in the north. They stayed until 1945.

Dec 1937, the Japanese killed 30,000 people in Nanking. They invaded Shanghai, expecting to push through to the capital of China, which was Nanking back then. But Shanghai fought hard and delayed the Japanese by 3 months, so the Chinese government was able to leave Nanking before the Japanese got there. The Japanese destroyed half of Shanghai as they left, then when they got to Nanking and found it only had women and children and no government official – the massacre.

This tower is built after the Chinese dragon where the architect thought that it would twist and go up like a dragon leaving the Earth and going up to the heavens. Just wait until you see it after dark!

We were taken to this tower and some people paid $28AUS to go to the top to the viewing platform. This was the only optional extra that we declined. We knew it was going to be buildings stretching out in all directons, and we don’t know the layout of Shanghai. It wasn’t like when I was in London for my birthday and Scott took me to the Sky Garden. I could see all the places I’d been to in London back in 2015 and it was wonderful.

Look! Flying saucers!

Summer, our guide, said that when she was a child she was brought here by her teachers on a school excursion and it was all farmland. This was in 1996; now it’s just covered with skyscrapers as far as I can see.

“Even for me, the buildings sprang up like mushrooms. This used to be the poor side of Shanghai. When I was younger, my grandmother told me, ‘ When you date, don’t date a man from the west side.’ Now it’s the richest side of Shanghai!”

In 30 years, Shanghai went from having only one way to cross the river (by ferry), to 12 bridges,  5 train lines and 17 tunnels.

They have 8,000 buildings over 10 metres tall. The expansion is incredible.It also seems that architecta are in a competition to create skyscrapers with the most unusual shapes they can devise. This city is very futuristic-looking.

After we walked around this part of town for a while, we drove to The Bund. I was excited to see this – it was one of the reasons I chose this tour. Can’t go to China without seeing The Bund!

1860 to 1930’s buildings are on one side of the river, while the other side is modern Shanghai. It looks like something from ‘The Jetsons;, doesn’t it? When the Japanese invaded, all of this was razed to the ground.

The Chinese protected the old buildings on the other side of the river, which is why The Bund is so unique today. The old and the new are gazing at each other across the river.

The monument of the Shanghai heroes. It was very North Korea!

Walking along the Bund, the feeling of spaciousness is incredible. It was a Saturday morning and there were a lot of people here and a lot of buildings but it just felt like you can breathe here. It’s amazing. I absolutely loved it.

These two came up to me, waved and wanted me to take their picture. Do you notice the macine gun the little boy has?

People were out and about with their families.

The bollards are far more decorative here. If you look at the side, you’ll see that it’s the city skyline. The cities here all seem to make an effort to make their streets pretty. We’ve noticed many, many underplantings of flowers along the sides of city streets and freeways. Sometimes they have their own watering systems attached.

After this, we went t a very boring museum BUT…

… here is a model of the Cutty Sark, the tea clipper ship that Deana and I visited when we went to Greenwich in England. I’ve been inside that very ship! I absolutely love it when my travels dovetail into one another.

Another flying saucer!

This was near the Matchmaker Market, where parents gather on a Saturday with posters advertising their son/daughter’s attributes, hoping that they’ll find a match for their child. Sometimes their child is unaware that their parents are doing this.

Parking in Shanghai is hidden underneath the parks and large buildings. Four or five levels, all hidden.

Lunch in the French Concession area. It was very pretty.

By some miracle, I was able to snatch a shot of the fountain. This place is very popular. There were heaps of restaurants and bakeries and the place was full of people.

We raised a glass to Dad.

Afterwards we wandered around. Bloglass Sandy bought an icecream. I was saving my money for taxi fares.

Spotted outside the bus. A Lamborghini. It was as if Dad, the car man, was waving to me.

A market! This was the first of two we went to. “Don’t buy clothes, shoes or bags at this first market,” said Summer. “This one is good for snacks and looking at the archetecture.”

Did I tell you about this dragon? He is the youngest of the 9 dragons born to some important dragon or other, and he only eats gold, silver and precious stones. He doesn’t have an anus, so all the wealth he eats stays with him. Shops position him at the front of their stores, so he eats all the money coming in the door, and then it stays there. Hmmm. Maybe I should get one for my house.

Another dovetail effect of my travel. I’ve just come back from Africa – and here are life-sized African animals made from chocolate!

The Shanghai people have nicknamed this building as ‘The Bottle Opener.’

“We love our beer!” said Summer.

I saw this in a knock-off Lego shop at the next market we went to. Then, as the sun went down, we went on a river cruise to see the world-famous lights on the Bund.

This is the building we started our day with – the one representing a dragon flying into the sky.

While we were waiting to get onto the boat, it was bedlam, but the cruise itself was chill.

Blogless Sandy LOVED it.

Then, once it was over, Summer called a taxi for me and we ran to catch it, through all of the crowds that were trying to get back onto their buses. I rode 20 minutes into the heart of Shanghai, to a hotel right behind Nanking Road.

My dear friend Scott is now a tour group leader for Riveria travel in the UK, and we just happened to be in Shanghai on the same night!

What are the odds that, on the day my father dies and I’m halfway across the world, I have two of my dearest friends in the world there with me????

Fortunate Frogdancer.

My taxi ride back to our hotel was LONG. I started to wonder if I was going to be found dead in a ditch somewhere as it grew to nearly an hour. But no, he grumpily pulled up in front of the hotel, then magicaly cheered up when he saw that I’d given him a very large tip. The poor man had to drive all the way back to Shanghai, so deserved a sweetener.

Tomorrow we fly home.

Dad Joke of the Day:

China, Day 8: Hangzhou.

Remember how we visited the silk factory yesterday?

Adrian, a laconic man on our tour, walked onto the bus this morning and asked, “Anyone want to feel my silk underwear?”

A roar of laughter greeted this. As it died away, Sharon from Bayswater quipped, “Oh look, they’re queuing up!!”

Apartments are an empty shell. No doors, no carpet, no kitchen, no bathroom… you have to buy all of that. In this city, it costs $900,000 Aussie dollars for 100 square metres. 

There’s a saying that when you buy an apartment, you empty 6 pockets. Not just the married couple, but both sets of parents as well.

100square metres ALSO includes lobby space, elevator space etc. so the apartment is closer to 75 square metres in actual living space.

My god. What a con.

The Chinese used to prefer sons to daughters, as daughters leave to join another family. But now? They prefer girls. 

The boys’ families are expected to provide the lions share of the cost of an apartment. 

When a baby girl is born, people say to the grandparents, “Congratulations, you can retire earlier!”

When a baby boy is born, they say, “Congratulations, you must work harder!”

West Lake is a natural lake. We took a boat ride. It’s surrounded by a National Park on 3 sides.

No high rise development is allowed lakeside. Apparently, this place is packed on the weekends.

This is a very green city. Trees line the streets, with floral underplantings. If you had to live in a high rise, like 95% of the population does, at least you can see green in this city.

The lake is located smack bang in the city centre. It appears to me that this might very well be the pick of the cities here, as there’s so much greenery , not just by the lake but all through the city.

Hangzhou used to be the capital city. 1,50 years ago they built a 1,400 kms long Grand Canal from here to Hangzhou, purely for the use of the emperor. It took 10 years to make. Concubines, silk, vegetables, rice… he travelled here once, then he was overthrown. His dynasty only lasted 2 generations.

Our next stop was a tea plantation. I didn’t think that I’d buy anything, after buying tea in both Vietnam and Japan, but I ended up buying enough green tea leaves to last me for 5 years. At least, that’s how long they’ll last if I store them in the freezer.

After the tea, it was a long drive through peak hour Friday night traffic to reach Shanghai.

We went straight to a theatre to see the Chinese equivalent of Cirque de Soleil. It was fantastic. I only took one video, of SEVEN motorbikes racing around inside a globe.

This trip has been a little stressful, as my father is dying. I was at the tea plantation when my sister Kate sent me a voicemail, saying that they’ve started Dad on the morphine. He told the doctor that he didn’t want to feel any pain before he dies, so this means the end is near.

Later, Kate messaged to say that one of the nurses looked at Dad and said quietly to Mum, “Tomorrow…”

It’s Saturday morning, as I type this. I fly home tomorrow.

Dad Joke of the Day:

China, Day 7: Suzhou.

Marco Polo wrote, “There is a heaven in the sky and a heaven on Earth and that is Suzhou.” 800 years ago, this was a city of canals, which reminded him of his home city of Venice.

6 million people live here- as opposed to 28 million in Shanghai. “In China, any city less than 10 million is a small city.”

Suzhou was established 1,000 years ago. It’s on the Yangtze River. 

This garden is 500 years old. Lingering Garden is on the world heritage list.

This used to be a rich family’s property. It took the Liu family 16 years to complete the garden. 3 or 4 generations lived there together.

Lotus fish pond. They are spraying mist across the pond for the lotus plants- and for the visual.

This place is not on a huge parcel of land, but it’s cleverly designed to make the most of the space and to attract every breath of air in this humid place.

The family made their money from silk and salt. You needed permission from the emperor to sell salt, so this family was very wealthy. Everyone needs salt.

The rocks here are the same as in the Forbidden City. They come from the lake here.

There’s a 500 year old ginkgo tree over the lotus. 5 ginkgo seeds a day are good for the brain, so Summer says.

They bring the rocks from the lake during winter, when the lake and canals are frozen so they can slide the rocks. They were a huge status symbol because it was so expensive.

The people live upstairs to try and keep away from the constant humidity. They also wear silk in preference to anything else.

Sitting room.

This is the biggest place for the family to entertain. Mahogany furniture, uncomfortable so needed cushions. The room opens up to a huge rock garden, which is a huge boast about their wealth.

Family treasure, passed down for generations. This was really impressive. A big single marble piece with natural colours. River, mountain and a full moon in the sky. The characters are man made, but everything else is natural.

Another family treasure was this silk painting, you can see through it. Good for bigger rooms. It also hides the young girls from outsiders. It allowed the women to check out prospective suitors, being able to see and hear them secretly.

This was important, as marriages were arranged then. Summer said that the first time her grandparents met was on their wedding day. “Fortunately, they fell in love after that,” she said.

Remember our guide in Beijing? Tina also had an arranged marriage, but she definitely didn’t get a happy life. Parents don’t always know the best for their children.

Windows were made of rice paper  for the poor people, but rich people used very thin white silk.

The bonsai sections were incredible. There were probably 100+ , which in a way was a shame. Every single one of them was worthy of so much attention, but it was the reverse of “You can’t see the forest for the trees.” 

Dad used to bonsai trees and there are still a couple surviving. These ones were well over 100 years old. Just look at the trunks!

I don’t think I’ve ever seen bonsais like this before- made to grow on rocks.

They look like South Pacific islands.

This place was amazing. As I walked through, I could imagine the wealthy family living in this place built to catch the breezes and the shade. It would have been a pleasant place to live.

Our next stop was a silk factory. The reason these China tours are so cheap is because the Chinese government subsidises them, requiring that the tourists get paraded around to various factories. They know that we’re mostly going to buy stuff.

5,000 years ago, this woman called Leizu brought the knowledge of silk making to China. This proved to be an absolute bonanza for China, as silk has been one of China’s major exports ever since.

They have a temple for Leizu here, as this is the silk capital of China.

2,000 years later, China was exporting silk to Europe via the Silk Road, and by sea via Shanghai, Malacca and Venice.

Nowadays, the silk industry is controlled by the government. 

They certainly made a killing here today. Most couples bought something, and it was mostly bedding. Silk Donna’s, covers, sheets and pillowcases were flying out the door. I restrained myself and merely bought a scarf each for Mum and myself.

We went for a boat ride on a canal, where the fresh water came from the lake. When Marco Polo came here, the whole city was built around canals. Now there are only 18 canals left. They were dug 1,000 years ago.

The boats we were in were floating past the old houses. These are an oddity here as they’re privately owned. The government has what we would call a heritage listing over them, and they help people renovate them, as long as they’re within the guidelines.

You can see why Marco Polo called it the Venice of the East.

We were given an hour to wander around, grab some lunch and see the sights. We sampled pan-Fried dumplings, which Blogless Sandy liked more than I did.

After lunch we wandered around for a while.

It was very pretty.

When we joined Summer again, she took us for a walk up to the old city wall.

The views weren’t at all bad.
Our next stop is the city of Hangzhou. Then Shanghai, then home.

How quickly this tour has gone!

Dad Joke of the Day:

China, Day 6: Lab-grown diamonds, history and our last bullet train.

So I may have bought another set of earrings… these ones match my genuine emerald ring that I bought in Thailand in 2997. But these are fake.

To be honest, today wasn’t the most exciting day I’ve had travelling, but if you’re following along, you’ll know I’ve had a very good run.

Can’t complain!

1,500 degrees and lots of pressure to grow a diamond. They start with graphite, then squeeze it under incredible heat to produce this pretty diamond dust.

We were told not to touch it, but of course a couple of people put their fingers in. Have I mentioned that this is the stupidest group I’ve ever travelled with? Don’t get me wrong… there are a lot of great people in the group. But there are a fair few people who don’t know their arses from their elbows.
Anyway, back to my notes.

It’s finished in 40 minutes, then a further 7 days needed till the end.

Less than 10 carats are for jewellery, more than this is military and industrial.

The first machine selects for shape. It works on vibration.

Magnetic separator separates the good quality on the left from the bad quality or industrial quality on the right.

The workshop runs 24 hours a day 3X8 hour shifts. We were taken to the shop, but I’ve already told you what happened there.

Then it was off to a museum.

3,600 years ago, this guy founded the second dynasty in China.
Also, see the guy standing with his wife in the foreground? It turns out we went to the same primary school, though he was about 10 years ahead of me. Small world,

Shang Dynasty, which was part of the New Stone Age.

Before this, it was a matriarchal society. Then, they decided to move away from being sensible.

Bronze drinking vessel.

Porcelain bowl. You can see how they’ve put it together after it was smashed. The passage of time is hard on crockery.

Primarily fish was used in their diet because as Dominic said, if they came across animals, the animals would eat them, so fish were safe to catch and easy to eat.

A pig in a sacrificial pit. One year later, you sacrifice a pig for him. Then every 3 years.

They had a few dioramas which weren’t bad, but I have to say that I could have done with less museum.

Then it was off to the train station for the third and last time to catch a bullet train.

Blogless Sandy and I agree that travelling on a fast train is really the way to go. Lots of leg room, swift, quiet and very civilised.

We have 3 more cities before we come home. This tour covers a lot of ground in a very short time.

So yes, not the most riveting day, but tomorrow sounds like it should be good. According to Summer, our new guide, we’ll be walking in the footsteps of Marco Polo.

Dad Joke of the Day:

China, Day 5: Shaolin Temple and Kung Fu.

Shaolin Temple is famous for king fu and medicine.

Kids start at 6, with 90% being Chinese. Also, around 90% are boys.

7K AUD a year is the fee to go to the school here. It’s not cheap. They are there from 7:20 am to 6pm. Domenic has a 12 year old son there, so he knows a lot about it.

Tang dynasty started this. 618 – 907.

When the civil war started, the Tung leader fled to the Shaolin Temple, which only had 100 monks. They went out and defeated the 10,000 strong army.

Two years later, the Tung guy took the throne and raised the temple high. They went from 100 to 1,000 monks. 

Lots of monks went there to be fed, and to learn self defence.

If you wanted to learn kung fu, you had to spend a year hauling water up the mountain to the temple.

At times, their numbers swelled to 3,000, but this made the government nervous, as the monks were such good fighters. The numbers were eventually capped at 500.

1,400 years ago, the city had 1 million people.  80,000 people were from other places, such as Korea , Iran and Russia.

Kung fu has 10 different parts, with the fighting being only one part. Tai Chi is another part.

Before 2020, the birth rate was 20 million a year. 

Now, it’s around 10 million a year.

It’s very expensive to get married here in China.

In 1970, to get married, people needed a Sewing machine to make clothes, a Phoenix brand bicycle, and a watch.

1980, they needed a fridge, TV (programs were only from 7 -9),and washing machine.

1990, they needed air conditioner, a colour tv, video recorder.

2000, it was a computer, a car and an apartment. “If you have a house, the lady will marry you.”

Because of this, housing prices have shot up.

2010- credit card and BMW = Be My Wife or Bring My Wallet!

Cheaper BMWs are made here in Beijing. MGs are now made in China too. A guy on our tour loves his.

6 cities are built around making iPhones. There are 300,000 people in this city who work for Apple. Our guide was laughing about Trump’s tariffs, saying that the Americans can’t pay so much extra.

To my chagrin, Domenic said that it costs $200 to make my phone. I paid $1,500!

“You very rich lady to pay that!” He said.

“I was, until I bought this!” I replied.

8 months salary pays for the average iPhone Max. Crazy. “But some Chinese ladies like to do this.”

“How much is petrol here?” someone asked.

“Bloody expensive!” he replied. The ‘bloody’ was in an Australian accent. It turns out that it’s the same as Australia, but as Lucas said, we earn 4 times as much as the average Chinese, so petrol is hugely expensive for them.

10,000 students are here. People send their less academically gifted sons. When they graduate, they tend to work in security as bodyguards.

Zen Buddhism is from here.

The lion means power.

The Gate is 300 years old. By the way, I’m copying from my notes. There may be speeling nistakes.

Temple 1,500 years old. 

Ginkgo tree is the same age as the temple.

See the holes in the trunk? They are from the kung fu students practicing jabbing their fingers to be strong enough to break through tiles, etc.

Tortoise is 1,400 years old. The writing is Chinese cursive and the vast majority of Chinese people can’t read it any more. These tortoise statues were dotted all over the place. Their symbolic meaning is longevity.

The statue to the right of the Buddha is of the guy who brought Buddhism back to this area.

This is very much a working monastery. This building with the reclining Buddha is a study hall.

They cook in these big pots, while students are suspended above, learning how to kick and somersault in mid air. I imagine the motivation would be high.

Once Domenic had shown us the first 3 levels of buildings, we were given 7 minutes to explore. The pace on this trip is frenetic. Blogless Sandy elected to whip up and see the last building. There were a lot of steps. I chose to amble back down and see what I could see.

On top of a roof.

After this, we walked to see the monks’ graveyard. It was a hot day, but even so, I was regretting wearing my sandals. My feet weren’t getting as much support as they clearly needed.

The graveyard here has more than 200 markers for monks from level one to level seven. The higher the tomb,  the higher the level the monk achieved.

Once we’d taken our photos, we kept walking. This part of the tour wasn’t on the itinerary. Someone had asked Domenic if we could go on the chairlift to the top of the mountain. For an extra $25 AUD each, we could. Blogless Sandy and I have agreed that we’ll sign up for everything, so we handed over a 100 yuan note each to Domenic.

No one realised just how much walking was involved to get to the place where the chairlift was. It was “only” 900 metres, but it was uphill. I tell you, this is yet another example of why I’m travelling so much while I’m reasonably nimble. Some of the older and fatter people in the group were having trouble, but we all made it in the end.

The views from the cable car were amazing.

Very grand and spectacular.

We got out and wandered around the top. I was assuming that the views of the mountains and valleys were the drawcard. 

But then I got the best surprise I’ve had for a long while…

Zoom in to the cliff. 

See the village and temple there? How exquisite!

Imagine living way up there? What would it be like?

There was a path leading all the way up to the village. We only had half an hour before we had to leave, but we decided to walk as far as we could before we had to turn back.

It was still high 30’s, so the shade and the breeze were very welcome. Half way along, there was a clump of eateries, a massage place and a stall where a guy was selling etchings of the temple carved onto grains of rice. Free enterprise is alive and well here.

Here’s one that Sandy took, which shows just how the path was clinging to the cliff. For someone who’s leery of heights, she did remarkably well.

There came a point where we were right near the end of the cliff, but time was ticking. We took some photos, then headed back.

I’ll never forget the sight of the buildings perched on the edge of the cliff, with the sheer rock plunging down to the valley below. How beautiful and isolated it was. 

I’m so glad I didn’t know about it beforehand. It was the most wonderful surprise.

Dad Joke of the Day:

China, Day 4: The Terracotta Warriors.

The terracotta warriors were found in 1974 by a local farmer while he was digging a well.

When he first found the statues, he thought they were ghosts, because they had natural colouring when they were first uncovered, then the colours disappeared within 3 minutes due to oxidisation.

In the last couple of years, scientists have figured out how to stop this from happening.

Here is a view of what the statues actually looked like before the oxidisation happened.

As people kept digging, they found 8,000 life-sized warriors- all with different faces. They are still digging, finding more warriors, bronze chariots, animals etc. “The emperor needed BMW for the afterlife.”

Xi’an was the ancient capital of China, so that’s why the warriors are here.

Emperor Qin  ascended the throne at 13, and died at 50. 221BC, so they are more than 2,000 years old.

The first dynasty knew how to make metal, so they took over the whole of China. They believed in an afterlife, like the Egyptians, except they didn’t do human sacrifice like in Egypt. They had an army of clay, but they were based on real people, so “There are no twins” said Maggie, our guide for today.

The farmer was paid $5 for his trouble. But he was given the duty free shop, so he makes money this way. He’s 77 years old now. Here he is, signing books for 200 yuan ($50) each and lapping up his celebrity.

There are more than 40,000 visitors here each day. On Chinese public holidays, that number doubles. The bullet trains are the main reason why visitor numbers have exploded. It’s far easier for people to travel here.

When US President Clinton came to see the warriors, the farmer was primed to say two remarks to him. The first was “How are you?” and the second was “Me too.” The farmer spoke no English so he had no clue as to what he was saying. He had to memorise the sounds.

The farmer, when he was brought out in front of all the media to meet the president, forgot exactly what to say, so he asked Clinton, “Who are you?”

“I’m the president of the USA,” said Clinton.

The farmer replied, “Me too!”

Pit 1 has 6,000 statues. Most of these are infantry. The buildings that house them are massive, and are air conditioned, which was wonderful because the temperature was a balmy 39C. People were swarming all over the place.

The emperor’s tomb is 1.5 kms behind them. They are facing outward to protect him. 

There are no weapons in Pit 1, because slaves came back after the emperor died to damage his army and leave him vulnerable in the afterlife. They weren’t all that fond of him.They smashed statues and stole the weapons. These statues are being repaired.

After opening hours is when the restoration and archeology takes place. There’s no way anyone could concentrate on their work with thousands of people jostling each other, trying to get a better view of them.

Each statue weighs between 200 and 300 kg .

This one is wrapped in plastic wrap to protect the colours from the air.

The next place we went to was Pit 3. This pit was found with only 68 soldiers. This was an animal sacrifice centre. They were using the animal bones to foretell the future.

Angry slaves got here too, as you can see.

Pit 2 has 1,000 soldiers and 500 horses. The angry slaves missed this bit, so they’ve kept them underground to preserve their colours and keep them safe. They’ve used sonar etc to work out how many warriors are down here.

The exciting thing is that there are genuine warriors in glass displays along the side wall in this pit. This one is an archer. I this is my favourite one. I bought a little one for $25 to bring home with me.

A high ranking officer. He seems a little full of himself.

A cavalryman and his horse.

I thought this guy would be a king fu guy, but he’s a standing archer. His bow, being made of wood, has rotted away.

I saw these monks going in as we were coming out.

I’m so glad I came to see the warriors. It’s a strange feeling to know that you’re looking at things that were made over 2,000 years ago. The emperor had these made for selfish reasons, but there’s no denying that his belief in the afterlife has been a goldmine for his country. There were a LOT of people there today, and as we were leaving, more busloads were arriving.

I saw this statue in the farmer’s gift shop. Buddha riding a water buffalo, apparently unruffled by the experience. How bizarre.

Here’s another bizarre statue. This one is of the youngest baby dragon, called Pichu. He is beloved by shopkeepers, businessmen and tightarses, because he eats gold, silver and gemstones, but he doesn’t have an anus so he can’t poo out any of the riches he swallows. His expression indicates that he has the worst constipation in the world.

After the terracotta warriors, we walked to a restaurant for lunch, then gathered outside. Maggie counted us all, then off we walked to the bus. We were on our way to the train station for another bullet train ride to our next stop. It was important that we didn’t miss that train!

We were at the bus when the word went out. Ross’s wife had just noticed that he was missing. omg

Maggie and one of the guys raced back to the restaurant to try and find him. Time went by…

We made it to the station with 10 minutes to spare. Apparently, he’d put his hand up for the head count, then saw something interesting in a shop. He glanced at it, and when he looked up all 39 of us had suddenly vanished.

I hope he gave Maggie a very good tip.

Blogless Sandy has been under the weather today. She’s been going on by force of will alone, because there was no way she was going to miss the warriors. It’s the highlight of the tour.

Meanwhile, I’m dowsing myself in hand sanitiser and hoping I don’t catch it.

Our next guide in Zhengzhou is called Domenic. When we arrived, it was 7:30 pm and it was still 36C. I think he’s used to dealing with tired Aussie tourists. We were on the bus not 5 minutes and he was selling cold cans of beer and water. The men were happy on the one hour drive to the hotel.

Dad Joke of the Day:

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