If I was Charles Darwin, I’d want to kill myself after seeing this statue. We saw this on our walk to the Charles Darwin Research Centre this morning.

They’re big on all things Galapagos, but tortoises seem to be the main game.

The Charles Darwin Research Centre opened in 1959 to protect the environment from black rats, pigs, dogs, etc.

These were the first baby tortoises we saw. These ones are between 5 – 7 years old. The carapaces are still very soft. When they are 6 – 10 years old, they’re released into the wild when their carapaces are strong enough to protect them from predators.

There are over 9,000 individuals here at the Centre. The tortoises are counted every day. People try to steal them to sell them. Can you believe it?

When the tortoises bury their eggs, the temperature of the sand determines their sex. A higher temperature of 29.5C  produces females. 28C makes males.

At the moment, the Galapagos is going through El Ninã, so more females are being born in the wild. The Centre are able to manipulate how many eggs are female and male.

These two look as if they’re posing for me. Saddleback tortoises from the highlands, with long necks to reach cactus flowers.

Females reach sexual maturity at 16; males at 20. 

These babies are from Florian’s Island and were born in 2024.

Less than 10% of baby tortoises in the wild live to see their first birthday. Here? 80 – 90%.

These ones are from the same island, but were born this year. They are careful to avoid mixing the different species together.

We had to stay in a Climatisation room for 2 minutes before entering the room to see Lonesome George.

They thought tortoises were extinct on Pinta island. In 1972 rangers hunting goats found him trying to hide in the vegetation.

They tried to find him another female. They introduced many different females of different species, but he wasn’t interested. It’s believed he was 120 years old when he died in 2012.

Once George was taxidermied, it was found that his sperm duct was blocked. A simple operation could have corrected this.

Oops.

Another famous giant tortoise who lived to tell a happier tale was Diego.

A tiny population of Española tortoises was found in the 1970’s. 12 females and 3 very old males. A search across the world began, to try and find a viable male.

Diego was taken from the Galápagos in the early 20th century and lived in the San Diego zoo for over three decades. He was moved to Santa Cruz island in 1977 to join a highly successful breeding program. He fathered roughly 900 offspring, essentially saving his species. 

He officially retired and was returned to the wild on his native island in 2020. 

After the Charles Darwin Centre, we had a couple of hours to kill before we got picked up for a boat ride to our next island.

These woven tapestries were for sale in a very expensive gift shop just down the street. Nice colours, though I wasn’t going to shell out nearly 2K for one.

This mosaic garden was also just down the street. I was there with Lyn and Jason, a great couple from Darwin. We were taking photos, and then I heard a weird noise, almost like pigs. The dividing fence from the house next door was a chain link one. I peered through to see the pigs.

Nope! There were 2 sea lions on the back verandah, just hanging around.

In the afternoon we had a 2 hour “ferry” ride to San Christine Island. I put ferry in inverted commas because it was a small boat that only fit 40 people.

Speaking of sea lions, we decided to go and find some shade on the waterfront, where there’d be a breeze. These guys had beaten us to it.

Toofs sticking out.

This one is out to it.

This is a frigate bird, the ones who look like pterodactyls when they’re up in the air. This photo didn’t need me to zoom in. He was actually cool with letting me step up right beside him.

The red balloon on his neck means that he’s a bachelor. Still out there looking for love…

We had a few people in the group who are prone to get travel sickness, but no one succumbed.

Me? Travelling in Antarctica and Greenland means that any bumpy seas or air turbulence puts me to sleep. I find it comforting, as if I’m back in the womb. I had a very restful crossing.

When we arrived on the new island, we were greeted by happy sea lions.

On the drive through town on the way to our hotel. Liam was pointing out places to go for dinner, when , almost as an aside, he said, “If you go down this road beside the naval station and turn to a right, you may see some Boobies.

Well!! That was enough for me. I threw my bags in my room, grabbed my phone and water bottle and headed out. Liz, Lyn and Jason came with me.

We wandered down as it was getting dark and Oh My God:

There was only one. But this one bird was literally 6 inches away from me. I never thought I would ever be this close to a Blue-Footed Booby. Yet here we were.

Here’s a still image. I walked off to dinner feeling so damned happy. After yesterday’s debacle with my camera, I can now show you all the bird I was most keen to see here.

I suppose that tomorrow we’ll see a thousand of them. But I don’t care. This one is MY Booby.

Dad joke of the day: